![]() With copper being the material for this application, the form tap will be much more forgiving than say, a stainless steel. Thread forming taps are generally harder for shade tree type guys to work with and are more likely to break during use.įor OP's circumstances cut threads are completely acceptable.įWIW tap drill sizes for the OP's application are as follows:įorm tap drill sizes will vary depending on the formability of the material. Thread forming taps require a slightly larger tap drill than a standard cutting tap to account for the fact that the threads are formed by deforming the material as opposed to removing (cutting) the material. Thread forming taps are typically used where very strong threads are required. I have linked an excellent overview of tap styles and when each style is appropriate to use. Chip direction (forward or reverse) is driven by the geometry at the tip of the tip. The number of flutes has zero impact on the direction the chips move. The one 3/8" hole drilled so far will be accepting a 3/8-16 bolt whose receptacle is the load/source side of a 500 amp Deltec shunt.Ĭlick to expand.Respectfully, this is not accurate information. The Brass bolt heads will not be easy to access, and I'd rather not even attempt to solder such a thick mass of copper to lock them in place ![]() I'd love to be able to bottom out the brass bolts, and then not have to worry about soldering them, or securing their heads so that I do not need to use two wrenches to tighten the ring terminals against the bar. So this 3/8" thick, 1 inch wide copper bar is overkill, which means its just about right. I am making my Own Bussbar, for 2/0 cable, which will rarely see a maximum sustained current of 240 amps. With No experience using thread forming taps, I am wondering if they pull themselves into the predrilled hole, or if they have to be lowered/ forced into the predrilled hole with precision I can never achieve by hand. Researching this, I ran across the recommendation to use thread forming taps rather than thread cutting taps. I've drilled and tapped copper before without a drill press, for 6mm metric thread ( nippondenso alternator + output stud), but was less than impressed with the results. This list is longer than you might think, and includes wrought and cast aluminum and aluminum alloys, copper, brass, stainless steels, carbon steels, and zinc diecasting alloys.I'm Looking to make 3/8-16 threads in a 3/8" thick chunk of copper, for some brass bolts to make my own upgrade proof busbar. Generally, materials that produce a continuous chip when drilling are good candidates for thread forming. ![]() ![]() This includes light metals and light metal alloys as well as steels and other materials with tensile strength to 1200 N/mm 2 and hardness below about R C 35 – 40. Since the metal’s structure is cold worked along the thread profile, the threads produced are generally stronger and have a smooth, burnished surface finish.įorming taps must be applied in materials that cold form well. Rather, the process displaces the material to generate the thread form. Unlike thread cutting, no material is removed during thread forming. ![]() For ductile work materials, thread forming can provide better size control and stronger threads while improving tool life and productivity. The vast majority of threaded holes–more than 90%, according to one supplier of taps and other cutting tools–are produced using cutting taps.īut many of those threads could be produced using forming taps, which can provide multiple advantages. In the right application, thread forming can boost quality and throughput ![]()
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